In one of those "Oh no!" moments, some of us have discovered that the Navy ARB or RU receivers (and some others which have early 1930s tuning cable drive components popularized by Bendix and ARC) used a slightly different thread from the usual speedometer drive nuts in order to attach the cable to its control box or receiver. By WWII, Bendix was probably the most prolific user of this larger .450" outer diameter cable, though a few pieces of equipment like the Navy ARB and the USAAC SCR-183/283 stuck with it as well. The smaller .335" outer diameter cable introduced about the same time as the ARC Type K command set equipment began to be used in more situations because it was easier to run and weighed less.
Complicating the problem of using it today is that the thread size of the coupling nuts was not standardized. In the common pre- and WWII military radio surplus, the coupling nuts on the military and commercial Bendix products generally appear to be identified by diamond knurling, and straight knurling on the "other" style, which seems to be more closely associated with radar and other special equipment. The "military radio" thread is 5/8"-27TPI (including commercial units used by the military), while the "other" commercial thread is 5/8"-24. The 27 and 24TPI nuts will *not* interchange without cross threading, even though the internal coupling spline drives of both styles is identical. It's a shame, as I have seen a number of very nice 6" long cables that would be just right for a collector's RU/GF display but have the wrong thread on the knurled nuts. Interestingly enough, the 27 T.P.I. thread came from a 19th century standard for gas light fittings. It persisted in electronic hardware in a number of places, including coax microphone connectors with the center soldered button. Now, a 24 T.P.I thread is so close to 27TPI that there is a temptation to just use a pair of pliers to make the connection to a military or Bendix product, but using that approach will distort the threads, and with a little bit of galling may make it necessary for you to saw it off if you want to decouple it... The 5/8"-24 thread is typical of the speedometer cable threads of the era. The only way to know for sure which one you are trying to match is with a machinist's thread gauge. It's easy to be misled by corrosion or gummy, dried out grease on the threads if you use the "try it" approach with too much force.
As for salvaging the spline drive ends from an old cable, it can be done. The actual spline coupling is usually no problem - it is removed with either a 1/16" or 3/32" pin punch, depending on who made the assembly. It can get a little tricky trying to hold everything steady while you apply a hammer to the pin, so I made up a little tool out of some 1" steel bar stock that uses a threaded steel screw with a short 1/16" diameter hardened nub on the tip. The body of the tool has the threads for the screw and a .100" diameter hole opposite that to accommodate the pin coming out of the shaft. There is a hole at right angles to the screw into which you insert the spline drive. I also relieved one side of the tool at a 45° angle so I could see the tip of the screw and its relative engagement with the end of the pin. You don't want to be inadvertantly trying to hollow out a hole in the body of the spline simply because because you couldn't see that the tip isn't directly over the end of the pin... You only need to get the pin moving a small amount before it can then be easily driven out the rest of the way with a conventional pin punch and bench block or other solid backing. By the way, I have to say I don't much like the deformed pins or sometimes taper pins used for this purpose. If you do any repetitive work on tuning cables, get a supply of short roll pins and enjoy the ease of installation and removal forevermore.
A greater difficulty comes in removing for re-use the nickel or cadmium plated brass adapter that gets crimped onto the end of the flex drive cable. It is *not* a trivial operation to remove the bundle of spring steel strands from that adapter. The simplest method is with a lathe, starting with a rigid center drill to begin excavating the tightly crimped bundle out of the crimped cavity. Then you continue with a carbide drill to the final depth of the cavity. You need carbide because the spring steel strands are hardened and will come out in tiny pieces that can tear up a conventional high speed steel drill bit. You also have to watch for a tendency for the drill to wander sideways and enlarge the cavity. Frankly, I've given up trying to reclaim them - it takes just a few minutes to make a fresh one on the lathe. A good grade of epoxy will hold the flex drive cable quite nicely if you clean the cable end of all grease and oil.
Most of the time you will still have to get the knurled nuts off the cable and shorten the sheath to the desired dimension for your particular installation. That's not hard to do - a 1/16" thick abrasive cutoff wheel is the easiest method for both sheath and inner cable and usually won't unravel the spiral sheath as sometimes happens with a hacksaw. If you want to be sure it won't unravel, use the Philco Services approach mentioned below and solder it before cutting.
Now, depending on how the original ferrule was attached, you may need to make at least one new ferrule to crimp or epoxy onto the sheath. (Don't forget to put the coupling nuts on first! I can't begin to describe how irritating it is to discover you've assembled the cable without them or with only one of them installed, or with one of them installed backwards...) I have seen steel ferrules that were soldered onto the sheath, and you can sweat those off with a small torch for reuse. I usually spray paint the sheath with chrome bumper spray, then wipe it down a week or so later with an old undershirt to dull the shine. It gives an excellent replication of Type I cadmium plating without the mess and toxicity, and won't darken over time like the real cadmium. Don't forget a drop of anti-sieze compound on the threads of the knurled nuts. Aluminum threads against aluminum threads is a good way to experience the wonderful effects of galling and resultant frozen fittings.
Below is a sketch of one version of the ferrule - the one shown in the photos. Since 90% of tuning cable work around here seems to be shortening existing cables to meet a particular dimension, you should be aware that there are variations in sheath diameter (including some cables made from the smaller command set sheathing) and length. The left end dimensions should be fairly standard for the Bendix style piece parts, but it's a good idea to try and match the one on the end you are saving just to make things look halfway decent. I use the sketch below primarily as a template to make changes based on the particular cable I'm working on. You can make pencil changes to a printout to match your particular situation.
There are a couple of things to rememember as you assemble these cables. First is that the ends are not really bearings per se - the spline couplings are held in a floating position by the male spline, while the sheath is held concentrically by the thread on the radio or other device. The back edge of the spline coupling is the only bearing surface that occasionally rubs on the ferrule, and a drop of grease is all that is necessary. The internal drive cable needs a very light coat of grease, mostly for curves where it is forced against the sheath, but it is a very loose fit insde the sheath, so not much is needed unless you enjoy the sight of it oozing out of the sheath spirals. The sheath is not a classic torque tube, which is to say it does not transmit a counter-torque from the drive device (the airframe accomplishes that) so the ferrules don't have to be crimped to the sheath with significant force. I've even run into a couple of examples where the ferrule was simply slipped onto the end without any mechanical bonding whatsoever, and presumably the cable still accomplished its function, since they were removed from old aircraft! If you decide to mechanically stake the ferrules rather than using epoxy, you'll have to use a sturdy mandrel inside to avoid collapsing the sheath. See the Philco Service sheets mentioned below.
The inner cable deserves a bit of thought as well. This cable is comprised of two separate sets of twisted strands, one set twisted in one direction and the other set twisted in the opposite direction. This give the shaft its flexibility while maintaining torsional stiffness to minimize backlash. A frequent approach to minimize the tendency to unravel is to clean the area to be cut with a good solvent and apply solder to the phosphor bronze cable before you cut it. See the Philco Services link mentioned below. Soldering will hold everything in place after the cut, and also provides a pre-tinned surface if you decide to make the spline adapters out of brass or steel. I prefer stainless to eliminate the nickle plating step, so I just epoxy them onto the cable, but brass or steel material allows you to sweat them on to the ends. More detailed instructions on fabricating these cables is located in Philco Services Cable Fabrication. One note on the Philco assembly drawings - of all the cables passing through here, I have never seen any washers between the female splines and the ferrule. That doesn't mean they were never installed - just that they don't seem to be common on the surplus samples I have seen to date.
Below is a sketch of the spline adapters for the .450"OD cable. They are the same as the ones on the command set cables, as one can see from the next section below, but the same warning applies - measure your female spline couplings before machining the adapters, as there are minor variations between manufacturers. Some of the female spline couplings have larger inner diameters where the spline adapter fits into it, requiring a step up in the adapter to fit. An example can be seen in the photo in the square drive section below. Moral of the story: obtain your female spline couplings first, then machine the adapters to fit.
Finally, for completeness, here is the knurled coupling nut that holds the whole assembly onto the radio or control box.